Delivery Systems in Skincare
Liposomes, nanodispersions, and exosomes are vesicles used in medicine and cosmeceutical skincare products to perform various functions and deliver active agents to care for the skin. A few questions arise when trying to decide which version to use in clinic and home care;
What is the difference?
Which ones are best suited for the skin?
Are they safe to apply to the skin?
Separating trends and marketing from science is imperative; therefore, research is needed to provide an analysis.
Liposomes were discovered in the 1960s, and suggested for use in drug delivery was first mentioned in the 1970s. L'Oréal began researching liposomes for cosmetic use, leading to the first treatment cream being released in 1986.
Liposomes are spherical vesicles with membranes made of one or more layers of Phosphatidylcholine, one of the most essential components of cells. Phosphatidylcholine is made of linoleic acid and choline, both essential for the health of the skin barrier. Liposomes can be used on their own or to encapsulate hydrophilic active agents in a bilayer of Phosphatidylcholine.
Fluid nanodispersions are biodegradable nanoparticles created when oil droplets fuse with liposomes. These nanodispersions, also referred to as nanoemulsions, encase lipophilic agents in a monolayer of Phosphatidylcholine. Encasing hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients in Phosphatidylcholine protects the active agents from oxidation and improves their bio-availability within the skin.
Liposomes and nanodispersions used in corneotherapeutic treatment and for home care are bio-individually chosen for each person. They can be used to positively affect age-related skin changes, neurodermatitis, inflammation, acne, rosacea, and more. Formulations using liposomal and biodegradable nanoparticles show excellent results when used topically.
One thing to note is the "greenwashing" in marketing against using products containing nano ingredients. These marketing tactics lack the explanation of chemical composition and comparison of the different types of nanoparticles, distinguishing which ones are non-biodegradable and biodegradable within the skin. We are exposed to nanoparticles every day. These particles are floating in the air as we speak in the form of microscopic sources that cannot be seen by the naked eye. To understand what is helpful and harmful to the barrier, research is needed for each ingredient by INCI name. It can be tedious, but it is necessary to avoid contributing to the marketing confusion that affects practitioners and consumers alike. Ingredients can be researched through the European Commission https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
Exosomes are small extracellular nanovesicles released from many different types of cells, including stem cells. Similar to liposomes and nanoparticles, they are also used in medicine and for cosmetic purposes. They are made up of lipids, proteins, and genetic material such as DNA, mRNA, and miRNA. Stem cell-derived exosomes originate from and are cultured from pluripotent stem cells from embryonic origin, bone marrow, and adipose tissue. They affect cell-to-cell communication, tissue repair, and immune system modulation.
Cosmetically, they are used in various skincare products for anti-aging treatment to reduce wrinkles, improve skin texture and hydration, repair tissue, and more. Skincare products containing stem cell-derived exosomes have become popular and are trending due to these claims. These products often contain non-corneotherapeutic ingredients such as preservatives harmful to the skin microbiome and EDTA, which binds heavy metals on and within the skin and negatively affects trace elements.
Although exosomes can have positive effects in stimulating biological function, there are factors to consider when deciding if they are safe and effective for cosmetic application. Exosomes require storage at cryogenic temperatures, raising the question of efficacy when formulated in skincare. Exosomes manipulate cell-to-cell communication and modulate the immune system. Evidence is lacking as to whether or not they could overstimulate the immune response and cause adverse effects long term. They have also been shown to cross biological barriers, and one mouse model study showed engineered exosomes could cross the blood-brain barrier when injected intravenously for medical and therapeutic purposes.
Current research challenges include sourcing and isolating exosomes from their source, stricter quality control over sources, and standardization. Acquired research and the origin of stem cells may present an ethical and moral dilemma for some. Research papers suggest more animal models are needed to study the effects due to existing data not being the best predictor of what may happen in human skin.
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https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020065
doi:10.1126/science.aau6977
https:////doi.org/10.3389/fcell.2021.751079
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33582246
Atkinson, Kai. “External triggering by vitamins, enzymes, cosmeceuticals, natural compounds, etc.” 8th International Symposium on Corneotherapy, October 2023
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